Street fashion has always gone hand in hand with popular music, particularly among working class British teenagers, who over the years have used both look and sound as important unifying factors in the creation of nationwide youth movements. Early examples of this include the socalled Teddy Boys who became synonymous with Rock'n'Roll in the 1950's and the Mods, who championed the Sounds of Modern Jazz and R&B early the following decade. But of all the cultural styles for which music and fashion were of equal significance, none have so far proved more enduring, not to say intimidating, than the movement that simply became known as Skinhead.

The development of the skinhead movement can be traced back to around the latter half of 1967. By this time, the Mod scene had crumbled and a new generation of British workingclass youngsters began to embrace the prevailing sounds currently emanating from jamaica. While their middle class contemporaries espoused high ideals and enjoyed getting high to the refrains of psychedelia, workingclass teenagers in Britain's inner cities sought solance in a sound and style that was almost zhe antithesis of Hippydom.


As winter approached, the first signs of the new, distinctive look began to take shape among the more style conscious in and around London. Some began sporting 'College Boy' haircuts, with their high or centre partings, while Levi jeans, navy blue 'windcheater' jackets, Prussiancollared flyfronted macs, donkey jackets and army surplus or 'Tuf' boots all became essential for 'the look' .

By the following spring, the style had become further refined. Hair length had gradually shortened and soon the 'crop' became standard for any selfrespecting trendsetter. In addition, Ben Sherman Oxfordweave shirts became fashionable, while jeans began to be worn hitched up. Before long, turnups were introduced to emphasize the footwear; of which the steel capped commandostyled Cherry Red boots or italian leather soled shoes proved most popular.

On the music front there were also changes. Around the summer of 1968, Jamaican music underwent a transformation, with the rhythms of Rocksteady superseded by the more rapid and aggressive metre of Reggae. This nononsense, uncompromising style perfectly suited the attitude of the new young stylists and over the ensuing months, it increasingly provided the focus for their growing movement. Soon their buying power had propelled Reggae from the peripheries of the UK music scene to its very heart and despite the reluctance of national broadcasters, increasing numbers of Jamaican discs found their way into the British Pop listings. The majority of these were issued by Trojan-records, which since its launch in the summer of 1968 had quickly dominated the rapidly growing Reggae market, releasing singles right, left and centre on its parent label and numerous subssidiaries.

Meanwhile on the fashion front, DR Marten 'airwair' boots had become de rigueur, along with the wearing of braces and 'jungle greens' (army trousers), while for the first time, the term 'Skinhead' came into usage by those outside the movement. As the look spread nationwide, the fashion conscious originators continued to make further refinements, introducing Levi stapress trousers, sleeveless pullovers, Tonic suits (made from threeply iridescent mohair material), Harrington jackets, trilby hats, crombie or 3/4 length sheepskin overcoats, steeltipped brogues, smoothes, loafers and Gibson shoes. In addition, the 'Number One Crop' with razor cut parting became the hairstyle increasingly favoured among the young men folk. Not to be outdone by their male counterparts, Skinhead girls developed their own look, sporting feathercut hairstyles , monkey boots, tonic jackets and skirts.

By the spring of 1970, those at the cutting edge of the scene had made further refinements to the style. 1/2 sleeve Ben Sherman shirts in gingham, large check or pyjama stripe were introduced, while similar desings by rival manufacturers, Brutus and Jaytex were also deemed acceptable. With the coming of summer, Levi jackets in denim or corduroy began appearing, with Polaroid sunglasses providing that extra bit of class. The socalled "Skinhead look" was now a nationwide phenomenon, but its astonishing popularity ultimately resulted in its demise. Clothing manufacturers had quickly caught on to the commercial possibilities of the style and began making cheap, inferior clothing that could, to the less discerning buyer, be passed off as the real McCoy and with every fashionconscious workingclass teenager jumping on the bandwagon, older stylists increasingly became disillusioned. They began growing their hair and revived the Prince of Wales dogtooth checked trousers that had first been made popular during the latter stages of the Mod era. Some even begin donning city gent bowlers along with the customary umbrella, but it was all to prove in vain. To add to their sense of dismay, the music that had bound them together was beginning to chnge, with Trojan the main culprits. In an attempt to boost sales further and establish Reggae as a mainstream genre, the company had increasingly sweetened recordings with sophisticated arrangements, making the hardhitting style of earlier releases very much a thing of the past.

By the time 1971 rolled around, only the naive or those too young to know better attempted to maintain the Skinhead look and soon even they had moved on. Reggae, of course remained, although Trojan`s failed attempts popularise the music, allied to anchange in political climate, ensured its allienation from most white, british teenagers.

The rest of the story is known. What comes next is your decision...